The Penguin (handwarming tip for winter climbing)

Do you hate ice climbing? Yes, yes! It’s scary and stupid and cold, you guys. Oh, but wait! Once your fingers are warm, it’s all puppy dogs and rainbows out there.

Been meaning to post this simple, effective tip. I remembered it yesterday, when, instead of being in the rock gym, for some stupid reason we climbed outside. It was six degrees.

Cold fingers are cold and miserable, so we often wear thicker gloves, which makes fumbling with a gear a major pain and is more pumpy. Can feel like you added a full difficulty grade to the climb. I rarely lead with thick gloves, btw – even in the cold – here’s a post for those with cold hands and glove dilemmas. And here’s something I wrote awhile back on Patagonia’s blog, with some tips for dressing for winter climbing.

Climbers practice a variety of techniques to warm the hands, and possibly offset the onset of the dreaded Screaming Barfies (the perfectly descriptive term for when your hands – or toes, whew, that one really sucks – get frigid and then re-warm). Some things are obvious, like keeping your belay parka on for as long as possible (a post on that here), bringing a hot thermos to the crag, shoveling-down calories, or saying “fuck this” and going home to drink booze.

Active techniques include the well-known Speedskater, and my personal favorite, the lesser-known Penguin. Whereas the Speedskater is easy to perform, it carries the risk of throwing you off balance, which can lead to your cruel and untimely death, and it requires space – won’t work at hanging belays, for example. The Penguin, on the other hand, is technique-intensive (including the facial expressions, of course), but it’s worth it. Don’t know how it works, but it does. For me, it’s a magical instant handwarmer. I’m dead serious. Got my technique down and everything – which is more than can be said for my video editing skills. Anyway, it helps make ice climbing less miserable and more fun. I hope it helps, and feel free to post-up any good tips you have.

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~ by Kelly Cordes on December 21, 2012.

7 Responses to “The Penguin (handwarming tip for winter climbing)”

  1. HAHA Kelly that was f–king hilarious. Can’t wait to show my girlfriend the penguin…

  2. My Missus is certain you’re talking about this:
    http://www.thepeasknees.co.uk/p1493/mini-hottie-knitted-penguin-reusable-hand-warmer/product_info.html

  3. Hahaha love this shit!

  4. Awesome! “Opens up your chi or some shit.” Had a laugh at that.

    Will definitely remember this one!

  5. too funny Kelly – looking forward to meeting you one of these days through our common friend Jaun Harlin III

  6. Yesss!!! I’ve been teaching the penguin for years! Highly effective.

  7. Great, and entertaining!
    Speaking of chi and that shit…first, keep an empty bladder. You get colder on an fuller bladder. Second, if you’re feeling cold, think of your kidneys.
    Semi-scientifically proven, and backed up by a Chinese medicine and Zen master I know.
    Try-er out!

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